2010年11月
Spatiotemporal Characteristics of Near-Bed Pressure Gradients on a Barred Beach
JOURNAL OF WATERWAY PORT COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING
- ,
- ,
- ,
- 巻
- 136
- 号
- 6
- 開始ページ
- 327
- 終了ページ
- 336
- 記述言語
- 英語
- 掲載種別
- 研究論文(学術雑誌)
- DOI
- 10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000055
- 出版者・発行元
- ASCE-AMER SOC CIVIL ENGINEERS
Observations of the cross-shore variations of pressure gradients measured on a fixed barred beach in a large-scale laboratory wave flume are presented in this paper. The wave-induced components (0.1-1.0 Hz) of the free surface elevation, near-bottom vertical and cross-shore velocities, and pressure gradient are used in the analysis. The cross-shore variation of the pressure gradient showed the maximum value in the area of wave breaking over the bar, and the pressure gradients were considered to be influenced by the fluctuation of the water surface elevation, which are shown to be a rough proxy for the water surface slope. The cross correlation related to the vertical velocity showed no correlation in the wave breaking area. Surprisingly, although several measuring points were located in the wave breaking area or in the inner surf zone, the spatial variation of the pressure gradient and water surface elevation had a correlation coefficient greater than 0.8 with time lags approximately 0.1 of the wave period from offshore to onshore in both regular and irregular wave cases. This indicates that the near-bottom pressure gradient can be estimated using the water surface elevation over a complex barred bathymetry and through the inner surf zone.
- リンク情報
- ID情報
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- DOI : 10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000055
- ISSN : 0733-950X
- eISSN : 1943-5460
- Web of Science ID : WOS:000283411700004