論文

査読有り
2010年11月

Spatiotemporal Characteristics of Near-Bed Pressure Gradients on a Barred Beach

JOURNAL OF WATERWAY PORT COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING
  • Takayuki Suzuki
  • ,
  • Sungwon Shin
  • ,
  • Daniel T. Cox
  • ,
  • Nobuhito Mori

136
6
開始ページ
327
終了ページ
336
記述言語
英語
掲載種別
研究論文(学術雑誌)
DOI
10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000055
出版者・発行元
ASCE-AMER SOC CIVIL ENGINEERS

Observations of the cross-shore variations of pressure gradients measured on a fixed barred beach in a large-scale laboratory wave flume are presented in this paper. The wave-induced components (0.1-1.0 Hz) of the free surface elevation, near-bottom vertical and cross-shore velocities, and pressure gradient are used in the analysis. The cross-shore variation of the pressure gradient showed the maximum value in the area of wave breaking over the bar, and the pressure gradients were considered to be influenced by the fluctuation of the water surface elevation, which are shown to be a rough proxy for the water surface slope. The cross correlation related to the vertical velocity showed no correlation in the wave breaking area. Surprisingly, although several measuring points were located in the wave breaking area or in the inner surf zone, the spatial variation of the pressure gradient and water surface elevation had a correlation coefficient greater than 0.8 with time lags approximately 0.1 of the wave period from offshore to onshore in both regular and irregular wave cases. This indicates that the near-bottom pressure gradient can be estimated using the water surface elevation over a complex barred bathymetry and through the inner surf zone.

リンク情報
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000055
Web of Science
https://gateway.webofknowledge.com/gateway/Gateway.cgi?GWVersion=2&SrcAuth=JSTA_CEL&SrcApp=J_Gate_JST&DestLinkType=FullRecord&KeyUT=WOS:000283411700004&DestApp=WOS_CPL
ID情報
  • DOI : 10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000055
  • ISSN : 0733-950X
  • eISSN : 1943-5460
  • Web of Science ID : WOS:000283411700004

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