論文

2020年

Evolution of High-Order Weakly Nonlinear Wave with Bottom Topography Change

Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering)
  • LYU Zuorui
  • ,
  • MORI Nobuhito
  • ,
  • KASHIMA Hiroaki

76
2
開始ページ
I_1
終了ページ
I_6
記述言語
英語
掲載種別
DOI
10.2208/kaigan.76.2_i_1, 10.2208/kaigan.77.2_i_7_references_DOI_X2dlD2qdWafNtAxatCgOa0GkqCm
出版者・発行元
Japan Society of Civil Engineers

To study nonlinear characteristics of freak wave, this research focuses on the spatial evolution process of weakly high-order nonlinear waves propagating over a sloping bottom. We use modified Non-Linear Schrö dinger (NLS) equation considering bathymetry change to conduct a Monte-Carlo simulation, and it gives spatial evolution of kurtosis and skewness of wave surface elevation at different cases. The effect of water depth and initial quasi-resonant interactions on wave evolution have been explored. We also discuss the relationship between kurtosis, skewness and maximum wave height, as well as their performance around critical water depth for four wave resonant interactions. The results indicate that in deep water initial BFI significantly effects kurtosis and occurrence probability of freak wave. From deep to shallow water, transition region around critical water depth makes this effect become complicated.

リンク情報
DOI
https://doi.org/10.2208/kaigan.76.2_i_1
DOI
https://doi.org/10.2208/kaigan.77.2_i_7_references_DOI_X2dlD2qdWafNtAxatCgOa0GkqCm
CiNii Research
https://cir.nii.ac.jp/crid/1391693801401659264?lang=ja
URL
https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/kaigan/76/2/76_I_1/_pdf
URL
http://id.ndl.go.jp/bib/030805622
URL
https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-18K18878/
ID情報
  • DOI : 10.2208/kaigan.76.2_i_1
  • DOI : 10.2208/kaigan.77.2_i_7_references_DOI_X2dlD2qdWafNtAxatCgOa0GkqCm
  • ISSN : 1884-2399
  • eISSN : 1883-8944
  • CiNii Articles ID : 130007935738
  • CiNii Research ID : 1391693801401659264

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