論文

2021年12月

Experiments on uni-directional and nonlinear wave group shoaling

Ocean Dynamics
  • Olivier Kimmoun
  • ,
  • Hung Chu Hsu
  • ,
  • Norbert Hoffmann
  • ,
  • Amin Chabchoub

71
11-12
開始ページ
1105
終了ページ
1112
記述言語
掲載種別
研究論文(学術雑誌)
DOI
10.1007/s10236-021-01485-6

We report an experimental study addressing the characteristic hydrodynamic transformations of unstable wave groups as well as JONSWAP wave fields propagating from deep-water towards shallow regions. Long zones of linearly rising floor levels have been installed to mimic a simplified coastal morphology. The breather surface elevation evolution data show a very good agreement with the depth-adapted nonlinear Schrödinger-type model. Our results suggest that the residual effects of four-wave resonance interactions in the shallower regions is relevant for the nonlinear group propagation over steep bottom topography slopes. When considering broadband JONSWAP processes, the model fails in predicting the evolution of kurtosis, independently of the values of significant wave height adopted. Nonetheless, consistency with the data is achieved when narrowing the spectrum of the JONSWAP wave field. Our study emphasizes the strong potential of weakly nonlinear frameworks in modeling complex wave shoaling problems and wave transformations in coastal zones.

リンク情報
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-021-01485-6
Scopus
https://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?partnerID=HzOxMe3b&scp=85118400802&origin=inward
Scopus Citedby
https://www.scopus.com/inward/citedby.uri?partnerID=HzOxMe3b&scp=85118400802&origin=inward
ID情報
  • DOI : 10.1007/s10236-021-01485-6
  • ISSN : 1616-7341
  • eISSN : 1616-7228
  • SCOPUS ID : 85118400802

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